Before transferring my fitting changes to the pattern, I checked my pattern tracing back to the original. I was really concerned about the side seams being uneven and the armscye being so deep. I found when I joined the Small Armscye to the Large Side Seam,my line dropped about 1/4″ of an inch. But I had traced the sizes I intended and made the BWL correctly (1″ evenly across the torso above the waist.)
I drew in the underarm correction and started working on changing the upper chest depth alteration to a wedge shape. What a pain. I cannot even describe a procedure. I slashed and sniped. Spread and overlapped. All the while trying to keep the center fold line vertical while eliminating humps that formed in the tissue; reducing the armscye depth but increasing the center front length oh and keeping the shoulder length the same as my own. The end result produced a much more deeply sloped shoulder than I’m used to seeing. I stopped there because even though this looked a bit off, I’m a believer that if that’s what the body needs, that’s what I’ve got to do.
I trimmed a wedge from armscye to waist. 1/2″ at the armscye, zero at the waist. Which incidentally trimmed away the underarm correction I’d just made.
I walked the seams and discovered that my front and back waist tick-marks did not match. The back was lower. I altered my front BWL from 1″ to 3/4″ which was just enough to make the side seams even and the waist marks align.
My next fabric is a rayon jersey. Love rayon. To wear I love rayon. Not really bad to sew either. It just doesn’t have a long life span in my closet. They tend to pill and shrink. I accept that it’s my fault. Since I’m not willing to dry clean all clothing, my rayon tops will always be on-the-way-out of my wardrobe; even when brand new. This particular rayon had some kind of finish applied to the selvages extending about 2″ into the interior. I bought it online months ago and didn’t notice this finish before. Seeing it now, I immediately said, “Uh Oh!” Like why would a special finish be required along the selvage? My best guess is that jersey will always roll and this jersey will probably roll worse than usual. Otherwise why go to the expense and effort of apply a special, non-wash-away finish at the factory? ?? I laid out the fabric and also found that it wanted to twist. At one time I switched decreased the length of yardages I purchased because I hated throwing away 1/2 a yard. I’ve since returned to buying more than I think I will need because I’ve purchased too many fabrics that after pre-washing shrunk or like this one twisted. I lay out the fabric so that I can at least cut the pieces on-grain. It’s a slower cutting process especially since I cut one piece at a time and did as much sewing as possible before cutting the next.
But I was bold at sewing. I finished, except for permanently attaching shoulder pads before the first try one. Bold or nuts? Well lets compare with the Gold T-shirt finished just days ago for my Spring 6PAC:
The back is significantly smoother and free from wrinkles. I seem to have twisted it at the left on the bottom during wear. I noted that it seemed clingy while I was pressing. Maybe a bit of static cling? Note too, that the greatest drag lines are beneath the lower right shoulder (my right shoulder is lower than the left). I’m not sure if I need to adjust my cover stitch a bit more or if I’m truly getting some flare at the hem.
I can still see diagonal drag lines pointing towards the side seam. But I can’t say for sure that it is an issue with the back and not just a continuation of the twist seen on the back. What I can say for sure is YEAH the front and back hems seem even. (PP104 has a curved hem. Very lovely but if you didn’t know better you would think the hem rises at the side seam. That’s deliberate.) I see some flare at the back hem. Not sure if I will or won’t try to adjust that. Thing is the biggest part of my butt is about 2″ above the hem. I need the ease across my rear.
I’m still looking at some static cling issues while trying to evaluate fit. The front from shoulder to bust apex is perfect. Just amazingly perfect. The diagonals have been reduced, but not eliminated. I’m looking and saying is this a dart issue? I’ve already got a 1-1/8″ deep dart. Should I increase the size of the wedge in the front? (Adding more front length?)
I’m beginning to be more concerned about the sleeve. I am careful to place my pattern on grain. I’m also careful to mark the front and back of the sleeve cap and the top –noting where it is to be placed in the armscye. I’ve had blouses where the seam is not the match point. Then again, I folded out a half-inch wedge on the sleeve starting at the armscye and decreasing it to nothing about 3″ down. I did that because I had to reduce the length of the underarm on the front and back pieces. If I had not, the sleeve cap would have been too large for the armscye. It would need to be gathered to fit. Generally, T-shirts don’t have gathered sleeve caps. Did I want a one? Since the fabric itself is twisted and static cling is “having it’s day”, I’m tempted to blame the fabric. Thing is, something has been happening with the sleeve all along. It’s worse now. But it has been present all along. Should I unfold those wedges? Or do I need to do something more.
I know I’m nearing perfection. Truthfully, I don’t expect to ever reach the point of saying everything is perfect. Everything I did with this garment was perfect. Just doesn’t happen in my life. But this has gotten a whole lot better. It’s near perfection.