The PP104 fit looks nicer, but there were things. Like the ease looked good across the bust and back, but I could pinch out about an inch under the arms (which meant 2 inches each arm and 4 inches total). T-shirts generally don’t have that much ease. Did I want that much? Also when I fit a sleeved garment, I always put the sleeve in before checking fit. Sleeves affect fit and need to be in place when checking fit. I felt but couldn’t really see if the armscye was too deep. I believe a sleeved garment should be a little deeper but this much? And, I really wanted to know did I need to add a wedge of ease across the upper back or did I need length completely across the back. Makes a difference not only in fit, but in pattern drafting/alterations.
So I traced PP104 yet again. Back and Front, yet again. This time I added the full armscye depth Pam has indicated is in the pattern. I used it in both front and back because I have wrinkles that indicate more length is required on both back and front. I also traced the darted front version. I have the hardest time imagining that I need more bust room. My bust is 1″ smaller than my waist and 3.5″ larger than my hips (and tummy). There’s not much change to my figure. I’m a nice fat, juicy pear not a blocky apple. But I’ve received so much help with fitting by just following the advice of real people. Not experts but people who’ve solved their fitting challenges and are willing to share their experience with me. They keep saying add an FBA or bust dart.
As usual I have digressed. This version has the bust dart and all the armscye depth Pam would draft into the pattern. I traced the small neck, shoulders and armscyes and the large side and hem lines. I left the sleeve pattern at its last draft i.e. no additional armscye depth, small sleeve cap, XL large side seams (the large felt too tight) and shortened length 1/2″ .
I used a cotton jersey in one of my beautiful bright blues. Royal or nearly royal blue. Great color with my eyes. I trimmed out a V-neckline and spent an inordinate time finishing it–just the neckline. I wanted to do the neat trick of wrapping the front facing around the back binding. I could not get my neckline edge even at the shoulders. I ripped that apart and put it together about 4 times. Finally, I shaped it into place and nailed it down with 2 rows of top stitching. Not one of my finest sewing efforts but I made it work. I did not put in the sleeves. I fused the hem up in to place but didn’t stitch it. Then I basted the side seams. As I thought, adding the armscye depth was not helpful. The armscye revealed most of my brassiere. Also, it was now very easy to tell that I had way too much ease in the chest. I was surprised when basting those side seams to find that the back was 1/2″ longer than the front. I expected that when I created the dart by pinching it into place. But now I had traced the bust dart version. It should have been even across the hem. Since I haven’t had issues with the pattern previously, I will take the blame. I’m just not sure what happened. Best guess is that the pattern lines as 1/8″ wide. If I’m tracing on the wrong side, I could easily and unknowingly add or subtract from the drafted measures.
Normally I don’t like to make multiple changes at the same time. But there was enough going on to convince me it would be ok. I drew horizontal lines across the bodice right where Pam indicated to shorten or lengthen the upper bodice. I folded along that line and basted a 3/8″ wedge from raw edge to a few threads at CB and CF and then back to 3/8″ at the opposite raw edge. On the inside, it looks like I’ve made two opposing darts that just touch at the center fold line. On the outside, it looks like a high yoke on both front and back. At the same time, I basted the side seam 1 cm (my throat plate is marked in metric) starting at the armscye and angling to nothing at the waist. Looks like a dart with the fat part at the armscye and point at the waist. Then I tried it on.
I needed to remove some more ease from the side seam so repeated the dart 2CM wide. Looked OK, maybe not wonderful but certainly improved over the Spring 6PAC knit tops. I considered calling it a muslin and tossing it. But then decided that blue is too good of a color for me. So what to do. Well I finished it. I serged across the chest darts trimming the excess and turning that into a true yoke. I trimmed 1/2″ from the front and back sides starting at the armscye decreasing to nothing at the waist; hemmed at the cover stitch and then serged the side seams together. Next, I styled it:
Really, how something is worn, can be more important. I defy you to say I’m not a nicely dressed Senior Citizen ready to go stand in the bank line.