Understanding Fit

is really a journey as well as a destination. I mean part of me says just finish fitting this and let’s get onto more interesting stuff (like FSL and cording and pintucks, etc etc). But part of me wants to know exactly what has changed and exactly what the effect of the change is.  By nature I’m pretty introspective and analytical, so the latter won. I decided to trace PP104 again this time utilizing front and back armscye depth options.  The upper back was much like displayed in yesterday’s RBA, the front however was totally unimproved. If anything it was worse.  I decided to pinch in the bust dart and remove some of the excess ease in the back.

I like to do this thing of comparing the photos from one fitting to another.  I thought today I would share the fitting progression. This new ITY received 2 fittings before the final pic. The first pic (to the left) is the garment with armscye depth added. In the middle is Fitting #2 which has added front bust dart and removed ease. On the right is the finished garment–ready to go into my closet.

I really thought I needed to remove back ease from shoulder-blade all the way to the hem. But you can see in the final pics that I’ve actually taken too much ease at the hem, it is now cupping beneath my tush and at the same time fabric is pooling in mid back. Too bad because I like this fabric in person much better than I do in the pics. It is bright. Definitely spring and maybe a bit of summer. The dark is brown not black. Which I like because I think it coordinates better with my brown pants.

The bust dart I pinched, definitely helped but I had problems marking and stitching both darts the same. While the  3/4″ deep dart is a good start it isn’t enough.

I’ve now made lifting my arm to see the side seam part of the fitting routine. My problem with that and the reason I didn’t always do it in the past, is that the mere act of lifting the arm shifts the fabric. Are the resulting wrinkles and seam appearance from fit or from posture?  It’s kind of hard to decide some times.  Here you can see that I created a High-Low hem. Very popular these days and besides I had to do something because adding the dart made the front side seam shorter than the back. I definitely didn’t want to ruche the back to the front.

So the final pics are the result of 3 changes:

  1. Armscye depth increased 1/2″
  2. -1/4″ Ease (total 1/2″)  from the back  from shoulder-blade to hem
  3. Added 3/4″ Front Dart

This version fits better than the last and much better than the 2 tops just completed for my spring 6PAC. I need to work on the front bust dart, perfecting it’s position and depth and tweak the ease removed from the back.

I am loving is that these are so quick and easy to sew. Even tracing doesn’t take that long! I’m using my cover stitch  for hemming But adding neck binding/finishing at the sewing machine.  Even with 3 fitting sessions  I finished this in one sewing session of about 4 hours.



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