I used Pamela’s Pattern 104 and a cotton rib knit for a long sleeve T-shirt. I’m kind of proud of myself in that I am using up old stash fabrics without making a concerted effort. This is a Walmart dollar fabric and is probably 20 years old. I’ve heard this color called Blue Ink. To me it is a muted periwinkle. I determine periwinkle by comparing with a known blue and a known purple. Periwinkle next to blue will look purple. Next to purple, periwinkle looks blue. Add a little black and a muted color is produced which is excellent, IMO, for pants. Other than lounge and underwear, I don’t wear cotton rib knits as bottoms. So this fabric was destined to become a top or donated. I have a mere 29″ left which will make a great Tank top this summer.
The Gold 104 told me I needed a narrow shoulder adjustment. I also know my back is rounding. My standard NSA method removes shoulder length and ease from both front and back of the chest. I can no longer afford to remove any ease across my upper chest both front and back. I need to do something different. First I attempted to rotate the length and width of the shoulder through the bust apex and to the side. This created a really wonky side seam. When I make a pattern alteration I look for elegance. It should solve at least one problem without creating another. I had tossed those tracings and began to make new copies of PP104 when it occurred to me that multi-sized patterns are prized because so many women find it effortless to change sizes across the hip. I remembered that we liked multi-sized patterns for easy hip area changes and forgot that I was getting good fit with my Ottobre patterns by tracing different sizes for upper bust, armscye and shoulders. After the ‘Duh! moment’ passed, I measured PP104. I thought the small shoulder would be too small but the medium a bit large. I’d rather have too big than too small and so traced the medium across the shoulders and armscye. Extended the armscye curve straight out another inch beyond the medium side seam. Extended the large side seam up to meet the level of the medium armscye and completed by tracing the large side seam and hem.
In the middle of that, I contemplated the 1/2″ extra that Pamela added to the armscye length. When tracing for the Gold Pp104, I took 1″ out across this area. I wasn’t confident of that decision. I had compared PP104 with a favorite sleeveless Louise Cutting pattern. A sleeveless pattern usually has a higher underarm seam. I decided this time I would only take out 1/2″ armscye length Pam said she added.
For the Gold 104, I made a 1.5″ BWL. I am perplexed at the diagonals forming from bust and shoulder-blade to side seam at the tummy level. I should have 5″ ease across the bust, the shoulder-blade, the waist and the hips. (I measured). The area which is different is between waist and hip. That area varies because the cutting line is angled. I kept stumbling into the problem, why with 5″ ease did my garments develop drag lines. What I keep remembering is a statement Shirley Adams made in regards to fitting pants. Shirley stated that diagonal lines indicate a mismatch between garment ease and body shape. Like the ease is there, but not in the right place. I had thought increasing the BWL to 1.5″ might take care of some of those lines; might move the garment to better correspond with my body shape.Nope. This time, I made a 1″ BWL just below the fullness of my bust. Want to guess where my diagonals are ending?
I’m onto something, just not sure exactly what.
I’m a bit surprised at the looseness of the back view and that the shoulders seem more than 1/4″ too wide. (The difference between the small and medium shoulder length is 1/2″). I am pleased that there is no strain across the shoulder blades and no gaping at the back neck. I may have fixed the back-neck gaping for this garment because I stretched self-fabric around the back neckline, then pressed it up and over the seam allowance. Effectively binding the SA. Pretty sure that procedure not only stabilized but scrunched the neckline just a bit. I am surprised at the ruffling at the hem. OK it’s not a tutu but it should be just straight across; no flare, fluting or ruffling at all.
I see many of the same or similar issues with the front:
i.e. too wide shoulders, drag lines below bust fullness terminating high at the side seam and at the hem a little flaring, ruffling . So I pull up the side view and look at it more carefully.
When I was making pattern alterations, I added 1″ length at the center front and decreasing to none at the side seam. Then I added an even 1″ length to both front and back at the hem. From previous experience I knew I wanted a slightly longer garment and I knew I needed to do something about the front hem rising. I was surprised, I even had to draw a straight line on my photo to confirm that the front hem is now just slightly, like 1/4″ longer than the back. Surprised? That hasn’t happened in a long time.
Thing is, I’m using a 20-year-old, 100% cotton rib-knit. As always, fabric is a huge factor in the final appearance of the garment. As Clothingengineer said, it makes the difference between a wadder and a favorite garment. I’m reluctant to make pattern alterations based on what I’m seeing. I actually thought that this version might turn out far to large because of the knit-rib fabric. I didn’t measure the stretch factor but most rib knits stretch 100%.
I calling this garment and this Spring 6PAC done, done, all done. I’ll be making another post on the neckline and my embellishment along with a summary of my PA C. I’m not unhappy with the garment but not 100% WOW’d either. It’s a good addition to the 6PAC and a great next-step to resolving my fitting issues.