5213 Again and Again

Continuing from yesterday’s post….

I had to stop and ask myself: Do I want to do an FBA on Loes Hinse patterns?  An FBA is an aggressive alteration effecting the armscye, shoulder, bust and hem. The beauty of Loes patterns is in the excellent draft and the simplicity of the design.  Her patterns show case fabrics. So I asked myself where was I going with this idea, especially as pertains to 5213?  My issues are the diagonal lines that extend from bust point to high hip which are mirrored on the back; and the rising front hem. I’ve also noted a tendency for the front to appear flounced probably as a result of adding the center front wedges when trying to add center front length.

It is imperative to me that the hem be even, unless the design specifically includes an asymmetrical or multi-length pieces which can be quite beautiful. But my run-of-the mill tops usually have a hem that is even from back, across side and front. That’s how this pattern and all my Loes Hinse patterns are drafted.   I need to even the hem.  

I need to eliminate the flounced front.  Again, there are designs that specially include this feature but none of my Loes Hinse patterns are so drafted. I don’t want my fitting changes to cause it.

I’m not really annoyed with the diagonal lines in front.  I’ve always thought of myself as anemic in that area.  Usually I am unreasonably pleased that my clothing might indicate  some padding about there. Because the diagonal drag lines are classic indicators of insufficient room in the chest area, I’ve assumed that I needed to increase the ease. That may not be true.  I have several blouse patterns on which the diagonals do not occur. They are all darted bodices.  I’ve even read that you can’t eliminate these diagonals unless a dart is taken on the side seam. The boob bump helps, but even having 7″ too much ease  which included a boob bump, did not eliminate the diagonal lines. Did not even reduce the number or depth of the diagonal lines.  I’m beginning to think that altering the bust may not be the solution at all; or that people who say a dart has to be added and sewn are correct.

So with these things in mind I started a new 5213. I’m using an ITY fabric, yet again, which also measure 50% stretch.

I’m using the previous pattern tracing (not the last larger sizer). The front has been slashed, spread, overlapped so many times that I traced it once again.  I applied my 1″ BWL.  I did not use my normal 1″ NSA.  The shoulder is already very narrow. But then I needed to shorten the sleeve  1″. Usually the 1″ NSA decreased the wing span 1″ which brings the sleeve up into position and the sleeve is then the correct length. Since the wing spread was not decreased at the shoulder, I had to do it on the sleeve.  Instead of adding a wedge to the center front to add length, I extended the CF line 2″at the hem and, using my curve, drew a new hem line connecting center front to side seam.  One last change to the center front. Loes has drafted a little fitting into each of the seams.  Wonderful for those of you who have a waist. I can’t tell I have a waist from the front or side views.  To see my waist, I have to look at my back.  In fact, my waist in front is not indented but is convex, curves outward. So I placed a ruler on the center front pattern piece and drew a straight line between neckline and hem eliminate the shaping Loes provided for my more shapely sisters.  I’m hoping these last two changes will add length to the center front without adding a flounce.

The first fitting was a near success. Even though when tested this fabric had 50% stretch, the same as all 4 fabrics sewn with this pattern since Nov 2014, I now could pinch 1.5″ ease under each arm. The shoulder and upper bust fit smoothly but where the previous version had fit nicely under the arm, this ITY was far too loose. I increased the side seam allowances from 1cm to 1.5cm

You can always tell a bad hair day by the way the photo is cropped.

This is not the finished garment but pics after the 2nd fitting.  The hems are turned and basted into place. Neckline is finished and I think I’m finished with changes.  The front hem is nearly even. I will turn the back hem up 1.75″ instead of my usual 1.25″.  I will be hemming the sleeve 2″ instead of it’s basted 1.25″ While the pictured  length is the current trend, I do prefer a slightly shorter sleeve. It still feels a little loose in the torso. Like I could take the body in another .5cm. But then it would be too tight across the back hip.

I am frankly flummoxed by fabric.  I’ve used 4 different ITY fabrics with equal stretch and gotten 4 different finished ease factors. Along with not being sure the bust needs to be fixed, I’m not sure anymore that I needed to add the 1/2 to my pattern side seams. Personally, I don’t find knits hard to sew. Rather, I find them difficult to fit. Which takes me to tomorrow’s book review post.

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2 thoughts on “5213 Again and Again

  1. Hi Bev, I would like to suggest the term, “Breast Augmentation or Alteration Curve” (BAC) instead of “boob bump”.

    Again, don’t be so hard on yourself in terms of fitting, esp these knits. It’s hard to see what you are referring to, however, drape is inherent in soft knits like you have been using. When a knit or other drapey fabric hangs over any curved surface, you will get soft folds unless you dart every single curve, which of course you don’t want to do. Enjoy the beauty of the drape that designers like Donna Karan and others take advantage of. In terms of Loes’ patterns, she always says, “let the fabric do the talking”, that is, know and take advantage of its characteristics in patterns so you don’t have to fight to make it do something it wasn’t designed to do.

    Like

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