Up another size?

After finishing the last LH 5213 to which I added 1/2″ to the side seams of front back and sleeves pieces and added an additional 1″ wedge to the center front. I begin to wonder if I hadn’t created the next larger size.  I compared the pattern pieces and found that the next larger size was about 1/2″ higher at the shoulder; and 1/8″ wider at the front and back side seams. The sleeves seemed nearly exactly the same.  I trust Loes drafting. I mean the past versions of my Loes Hinse patterns have seemed wonderful. (Have I just been blind to the fit differences?)   So I traced the next larger size  to test for fit.

I wasn’t too confident of this choice. 5213 is supposed to contain 2″ ease at the hip and is recommended for knit fabrics.  Here I am using ITY knits and using a size which should have 6″ ease ( {pattern hip size +2″=} – my hip=6″). Also, I was pretty sure that the previous size was a bit too long between shoulder and bust. Maybe 1/4″too long; and I’m adding another 1/2″?  Mentally, I just couldn’t reconcile the idea the larger size would fit even though I knew I had enlarged the previous tracing to be almost this size.

I chose another ITY. I think it’s important to at least be consistent with fabric choice.  This ITY also has 50% stretch but  I hate the print.  In fact, when I received this fabric in with my order, I checked to be sure it was the same as I ordered.  I can’t really condemn the fabric company because I know how difficult it is to photograph fabrics.  I believe that they take a standard sized sample and format it for the internet.  I believe the discrepancy arises from the fact this particular repeat is  large.  I liked the yellow and orange diamonds I was seeing, but was stunned by the puke-green roses which were also a part of this print.  I didn’t complain to the vendor. Like I said, I realize there are issues in photographing fabrics. The facts are that I ordered a group of ITY fabrics because they were on sale and fairly inexpensive.  I might have purchased this had I seen it in person just to have as a muslin. Muslin it is.

I cut the fabric and basted the pieces together. I should not have been surprised. Yet I was stunned.  While the previous version didn’t seem too large, this one was humongous

I made two attempts at stitching seams larger. My first attempt was stitching the shoulder on the stitching line of the previous size.  As suspected, this larger size was much too long between shoulder and bust. That of course, dropped the bust, waist and hip shaping all too low.  However, this was more difficult than I anticipated. Taking in this two-piece semi-raglan sleeve is awkward. However I was able to adjust enough to see that I really did not need to use this size.

It occurred to me that instead of “Muslin” I could make this a PJ top. I know another blogger who regularly cycles her less than acceptable sewing efforts into sleep wear. So I was struggling with a third set of alterations when DH declared, and I gratefully acquiesced, a time out for the evening meal.

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