Loes Hinse (LH) patterns are a staple in my wardrobe. I have about 6 LH patterns I am fitting for my current size and contemplate buying more. So when I realized I needed to add bust room, I decided to start with one of her patterns because I would probably be making the same changes to all.
I’m working with 5213 the V Neck tunic. I like this pattern and have made so many that I’ve lost count. It has both center front and center back seams for shaping. The sleeve is what I’ve heard describe elsewhere as a half-raglin. It has a bit of underarm shaping and then decreases towards the shoulder in a regular fashion. But does not terminate in a point as does a Raglan. My size sports a 2″ shoulder seam. For that reason, I don’t do my usual narrow shoulder alteration. I think Loes drafts something that narrows the front because I never have gaping issues. My NSA removes not only shoulder length but a little bit across the upper bodice. I”m slightly narrow in the upper bodice but the length is usually spot on. Or so I assume because the horizontal bust dart always falls exactly where I need it.
With Loes Hinse simple styles and preference of knit and drapey fabrics, she recommends a different type FBA. One that’s not so pattern invasive.
It consist of adding length at the top of the shoulder and adding a bump at the side along the widest part of the bust. I know this works because it is exactly what Pamela’s Patterns does for the best fitting T-shirt I’ve ever had.
Before I added a boob bump, I looked closely at my pattern and compared it with Pamela’s Pattern #104, the excellent T shirt mentioned before. I was surprised to see that the back was 1/2″ wider below the shoulder so from bottom of the shoulder to hem. Same with the front. I had to stop and think a sec. Loes patterns are a bit more figure revealing which would demand a closer fit. I compared the sleeves, which was that easy to do. 5213 is a 2 piece sleeve and it contains some shaping along that center seam. In the end I decided upon adding 1/2″ to the side seams of both front, back and sleeve. Then I added a 1/2″ boob bump and a 2nd 1″ tummy wedge (described here.)
Side bar here: fabric choice is important. I chose a cotton, light weight double-knit that was humongous when basted together. It was one of those experiences where I could only start at the pictures without a clue where to start. I started by chosing another fabric. I reasoned that the ITY used last November came me a near perfect fit. Starting with a known fabric would help me at least now avoid problems caused by fabric inherent characteristics. So my fabric is an ITY knit purchased from Fabricmart early last year.
I basted the garment together with 3/8″ SA and tried it on. That’s when I discovered the issue of too long sleeves and the flouncing described in yesterday’s post.
I removed the flouncing, shortened and hemmed the sleeve and added shoulder pads for the final fitting;
The back looks slightly tight across my but!. Only because I see the hem cupping under. I’m noticing my uneven shoulders more and more. Probably will start fixing that. I’ve been considering buying two sizes of shoulder pads 3/8 and 1/2″ and using the larger on the lower shoulder. could work. I do see some diagonal drag lines just below the shoulder to the high hip. I’m if this is related to the tightness I’m seeing across the hip or something else
I would be fine with this front were I not specifically working on adding some bust room to eliminate the diagonal lines between under-bust and hip.
The diagonals are most evident in side views where they form a V at the high hip. Also the front hem is still rising.
For the next version I’m adding another 1/4″ (3/4″ total) to the boob bump on the front ; 1/2″ at the hip on the back and coming up with a different alteration to add front length.
I like this top and will wear it. I used FOE to finish the neckline. I trimmed 3/8 from the neckline and started applying the FOE with a narrow zig zag. That worked like crap. 20 minutes latter having ripped the zig zag, I started again with a 4mm straight stitch. This time both garment and FOE cooperated feeding smoothly under the needle. This FOE has a shiny and a matt side. It’s narrow 5/8″ flat; 1/4″ when folded. I find that I prefer wider FOE and that I don’t like the shiny. For some reason the matt looks rich in my eyes where the shiny side says cheap. My greatest concern was not getting the circles in bad spots. I thought the 4 seams (CF, CB and side) would cut through the circles and help eliminate the issue. With the exception of the two circles on the back just above my rear, I reached goal. Fortunately, this is a winter garment. I’m likely to be wearing a third layer which will completely cover up all ills.