I know that I need to tackle the FBA; and I am. Just side-stepping into it. In fact, I did indeed add a boob bump a la Loes Hinse. But that’s a topic for another post. For this post I’m directing my attention to my efforts to add length to center front. Voila the usual dartless, 1/2 front pattern piece
I don’t know where I got the idea, but what I’ve been doing with some success is adding a 1″ wedge to the center front
Note the black line denoting the center front or place on fold line. In adding the wedge just about the waist, the bottom half of the pattern swings down and out away from the true vertical. I reasoned that I didn’t want to remove any tummy room to re-establish a true vertical and instead filled in the wedge extending from the hem with tissue pattern. It would seem that I had solve my need for additional length in front
In actual practice, I’ve added a flounce (or two) to the center front and (look closely) the hem still appears to be rising in front. It’s not even at all. To remove the flounce, at fitting time I offset the seam allowances so as to reveal a wedge extending from the hem along the front side seam. I cut that off when serging the seam.
Happily, that took care of most of the unintentional flouncing. Enough so that I will wear this garment. More interesting is that visually the front hem is not rising as high as it did with the flounce. I did not know that flounces had a visually shortening effect. It has to be visual. I can measure the CF before and after the alteration. The after will be 1″ longer. However, I admit this is not the solution.