PP108: The Plan Executed

My plan was a return to business as usual.  I had traced the size corresponding to my high bust. That was Pamela’s recommendation for a close fit.  I’m not content with yesterdays results. So I treated sizing just as I do for Burda, CLD, Loes Hines and other patterns.  I traced the size which fits my hips. Then I make 2 standard alterations. Well standard for me. These are the alterations which adapt my figure to the standard patterns.

So a large in PP108 fits the hips. Traced. I made a 1.5″ BWL because yesterdays medium was still about 1/2″ too long in the upper body.  I altered along the armscye petite line which Pam marked on the pattern.  Then I made my standard 1″ NSA.  Just before cutting my 100% cotton, jersey fabric, I compared the new tracing to my GOTO for woven shells the HAF.

Disappointed.

 

No really I’m not WOWed.   This pattern is touted to have included adjustments for our rounder backs, forward shoulders and thickening girths. Today’s version of Pp108  does less for me than yesterday’s.

In addition to the masses of wrinkles on the back, the front hem is clearly rising.  But one big improvement: yesterday the back looked very small in comparison with the front.  Today, they look even.  Yesterday it looked like I was using a smaller sizer for the back than the front. Not so today.

But I’m especially disappointed with the front.

I”m not a busty individual.  Even at my heaviest I was only a C cup. Now I’m almost a B. But this version insisted upon forming an armscye bust dart. It formed and could not be eased out.  I tried. Several times. Several ways.  The fabric clearly folded into a bust dart. Why do I object?  Because I already have an excellent fitting shell pattern with an armscye dart.  I did not want to fit another.  If I wanted a shell even a knit shell with the armscye dart, I would have started with the HAF. I had assumed there might be small drag lines similar to what I see with PP104

 

Last T made from PP104

Had I known that the armscye dart would develop, I would not have even purchased this pattern.

In case you can’t tell, I finished the sleeveless top above. I made about 6 fitting tweaks but was never able to keep the fabric from forming a dart. So I finished with simple bindings, stitched RST, turned inside and top stitched. I fused the hem into place and then said “why knock myself out over this hem”.   I cut 1.5″ strips of sticky WSS and smoothed them into place on the wrong side, overlapping the area to be stitched.  Then I coverstitched the hem. Easy. Beautiful. Probably a very good procedure for these jersey knits. I remember seeing or hearing comments about how jersey knits are becoming lighter and lighter and therefore trickier and trickier to handle.  As I look as these last two cotton jersey knits, I wonder if I would have purchased these at the fabric store.  I certainly would not have purchased a completed garment.  They remind me of the cheapest Walmart stuff.  The kind you buy because you have to have something right now and know that you won’t willingly wear it twice. But that’s OK, because it is so cheap.  That kind of knit. So my adapted procedure added only a slight expense and while eliminating the headache of fussing with the hem.  One possible downside is that the WSS needs to be soaked in water to remove it and that means I don’t get to wear this garment before washing it.  but in the end. Sleeveless top is done and in wardrobe for it’s life span (however short that might be).

As for the pattern, I think I’m done.  I still need a sleeveless top pattern for use with knits.  I really don’t want to sew darts in these casual garments and can accept a few small drag lines.

And as usual…. I have a plan.

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2 thoughts on “PP108: The Plan Executed

  1. I love reading your blog and have learned a lot from you. Seems like I have sewed forever, but then I stopped for a long time. I had gained so much weight. now the weight is gone and so I am re-learning to sew for me again. I am going thru the fitting curve to get a great fit like you. Now one thing I have discovered that I have started doing with all my top patterns is to make about a 1/2 wide by about 11/2 long dart in just my pattern in the armcy. I don’t sew the dart in the fabric Then I lower the bottom of the armcy 1/2. It seems to me that my chest kind of dips in and this seems to work as far as wrinkles in that area. Hope this make sense.

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    1. Interesting. I did not try lowering the armscye. In fact I was trying to bring the armscye up high enough so that my bra was covered. Most of my adult life, my weight would slowly increase no matter what I did. For one month I drank 3 and only 3 Slim Fast skim-milk shakes. I gained weight. I dropped 40 pounds when I retired. I’m guessing stress was the biggest cause of of my weight gain because I’m having health issues and the stress is causing my weight to creep upward. Sigh, it seems like I’m constantly refitting basics. Once I get the basic to fit the new shape/weight I can have fun sewing.

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