the TNT PAS

I couldn’t quite let go of the PAS. This has been a perfect pattern. It has made many beautiful blouses which fit perfectly. I was really bothered by the fact that adding the full tummy adjustment made the PAS too long in front. I was also concerned about the faint hint of a swayback in the final pic. I selected a silk charmeuse fabric for this version. There will be no doubt as to whether the fabric is sticking to my back side; being pushed upward due to a big rear; or piling up in the middle because of sway back.

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I’m not sure where I purchased this fabric. My memory says Georgous Fabrics. But this is a recent purchase, like within the last 6 months.I haven’t made any purchases from GF recently. I didn’t have it before the trip to Fort Collins so it must have come from Fabricmart or Fashion Fabrics. Except, after prewashing, I put Fabricmart’s stickers back on the fabric or pin the description Fashion Fabrics gives me. This fabric had neither. Making it more likely that it came from Georgeous Fabrics. Oh well, that’s really not important as it is no longer available.

For the previous PAS, I offset the SA’s 1/4″. Now, I trimmed 1/4″ from the back pattern side seams. That still leaves me with 1/2″ SA. I prefer 1/4″ seam allowances, but I’m still concerned about fit and have decided to leave a fitting option.  The front, I completely retraced. That makes 3 times I’ve traced the front pattern piece. But it’s had to return the pattern to it’s original shape after having made and taped the heck out of 3 alterations.  This time, I made the BWL and NSA  but did not make any allowances for my tummy.

Is it Ok to say I think the front and back views are just beautiful? Oh and the side view is too:

The hems were turned up 1/4″, twice and stitched into place before the side seams were basted together. I serged the shoulder seams at 1/4″. I want to change that for the future. I didn’t notice until now that the bust dart is slightly low. It may be OK, but I like it just a little higher. Just like the side seams were Ok at 1/4″ but  I preferred to make thee, a little deeper.

Silk Charmeuse can be a difficult fabric. It tends to crawl around – making it hard to cut and sew. Charmeuse also   snags and damages easily.  If ever you’ll know about a needle problem, it will show up on Charmeuse.  I spray stitched heavily 3 times. I spent a good 45 minutes at the ironing board making sure this fabric was controllable.  I really wanted to sew like right now or I would have dunked it and allowed  an overnight drying.   I used a size 9 universal needle at the SM and a 12 ELX needle in my serger.  I can’t find size 10 ELX needles. Personally, I don’t feel like there is enough difference between an 11 and 12 to justify stocking size 11’s. I also used the 1/4″ quilting foot which comes with my machine, a Husqvarna Ruby

1/4 Inch foot on the right (as you are looking into the picture.)

My 1/4″ foot is also my Jeans Stitching foot and my Fine Fabric foot and a few other feet as well. The center is a small hole just big enough for the straight and fix stitches to properly execute. I also selected the fine, woven settings from the machine’s menu.  I had no problems with this fine fabric. Today’s machines have been carefully engineered and tested — so that they work as well as the vintage machines.

I’m so excited about this version of my PAS.  Burda and Otto have published multiple patterns which are based on this extended shoulder draft. For me this means, I don’t need to fit those patterns. I can use my PAS and transfer the design details. I trimmed 1/4″ from all seam allowances (that does mean I trimmed 1/2″ total from the back side seams) and put my pattern away ready for use when the mood strikes me.

 

 

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6 thoughts on “the TNT PAS

  1. Yes, that’s a nice top/ blouse too. Could some of your rejects be due to fabric issues causing the perceived fit issues? That fabric really suits you, by the way!

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    1. That’s an interesting thought. Fabric does make a huge difference so yes I could be seeing fabric issues instead of fit issues. Also like most sewists, I’m really critical of my own sewing. Most people wouldn’t even know there was anything wrong if I didn’t tell them. Thanks for the compliment.

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