Update to My Hearts A Flutter

This is another CLD pattern that I just love.  Loved it when it first came out. Loved it through several sizes. Loved it enough to trace it yet again.

I’m using a rayon challis recently purchased from FabricMartFabrics. I love rayon challis. I do find it a little squirrelly when sewing. But that’s easy to control just takes about 30 minutes.  I spray starched 3 times both front and back and pressed with a dry iron between each spraying.  I tell you, the fabric feels like silk satin.

However, for me, the pattern is the real focus of this sewing. I’m refitting the My Hearts A Flutter Shell.  I traced the medium. I did not do my NSA. The shoulder is 4″ wide. CLD drafted the armscye to come up high on the average shoulder. For me it’s just perfect. I was concerned though about not doing the NSA. The NSA also remove a little ease across the top chest. However, even with the neck scooped an additional 1″ in front; 1/2 shoulder and back, the top isn’t gaping.

I did not make my 1″ BWL  This another personal standard alteration which brings any tummy and hip shaping up in line with my own tummy and hip. The side seams are very straight. The dart is placed in the armscye and adds no additional side shaping.  I did however struggle with a new-to-me alteration, what I’m calling a Full Tummy Alteration. No details this time but the objective is adding width across the tummy length in front to go over the tummy without adding so much extra at the hem a Judi Jetson-esque line is created. This garment should be straight up and down. Kind of fit across the shoulder but boxy everywhere else.  All of the alterations I’ve seen for a full tummy add a wedge at the hem which is much wider than the ease added across the tummy. They make a A line into a flared design. Oh and get this, they don’t add enough ease across my tummy until they’ve added 4″ flare at the hem. What’s worse, they don’t address the need for more length. It’s a beach ball, hun. It has to be longer to go over the hump than what you’d need for a straight plank of wood.  (Hint: I’m using what I’ve learned about FBA’s and PBA’s to create my very own FTA.)

Oh, forgot, the pattern has a hem flange. I use that sometimes but not often. Rather than creating two  seperate pieces which I then need to pin or tape to the front and back, I aligned the bottom edge of the front and back in turn with the top edge of the flange and traced the flange onto the top and back pattern pieces.  The result, I have two pieces instead of 4. If I want the flange, I can fold the pattern at the marked line.

More and more I’m coming to the conclusion that I’m needing a sway back alteration. Gone are the days when two simple alterations were all it took to fit me. Well, unless I want to go back to the fuller, drop shoulder styles of the 90’s.  Or the layered over layer styles currently called Lagen Look.

Now I did not make the 1″ back-waist adjusmtnet which would have shortened this blouse over all. I don’t think I want to. I think the proportions are good with what I normally wear.

Honestly, I think a better choice for me is the sway-back adjustment or leaving the vents open higher up, which come to think of it, is what Louise drafted.

 

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