Opps! A Wadder

It happens to everyone. Despite the best of planning the end result is just YUK. Let me tell you the story…

It started with a fabric that caught my eye while in Hancocks Fabrics in Sioux Falls.  This is the same soft canvas fabric as used in the recent RAL, just a different color and pattern. I really like/liked the fabric up close. When I got home, I found a pant weight fabric in yellow that exactly matched the dominant yellow in the new fabric. I immediately changed plans from vest (my favorite use of such fabrics) to sleeveless summer top.  I decided a little fun and coordination was in order. I chose an embroidery design and edited colors.

This became a neat coordinating detail on the pants leg-hem.

I didn’t want to refit a pants pattern and was tired of working with PP113. I’m a little flighty. I like my TNT’s but get tired of them. Point being that I said “Hey, why not use Butterick 5403? After all I’m still wearing the previous made pairs. So the pattern must be OK.”.  My pants fabric is a 100% cotton twill. It’s not denim. Denim has a white warp thread. This fabric was either all dyed the same yellow while in the thread stage or shortly after being woven into fabric. It’s a good weight for pants. My trouble is that it shrunk. Oh I preshrunk it. But when I embroidered I ended up with a mess of water soluble stabilizers and alignment marks. The easier way to remove all that was a trip through the washer and dryer. A trip which shrunk my never-worn pants.  Maybe because it is 100% cotton it will stretch out some. Denim always does. You know with denim pants you want them so tight you can barely zip them up in the morning. But even a bit of stretching out through wear is not going to do anything for the fabric hanging beneath my b utt in a V shape. Obviously, I need to alter this pant pattern for my fit today.

Perhaps another place to try out the PBA. OK so the pants need work. I can wear them around the house this summer and fall. When I do my seasonal wardrobe change over out-they-go.

Back to the blouse, which was the real focus of this sewing session.  I needed to refit the Pure And Simple Shell.  When I try on last year’s summer clothes, I can tell both hips and bust have spread.I expected this in February. That’s when I discovered the pants pattern I was using 4 weeks earlier didn’t fit anymore. So this wasn’t a surprise. I’ve just put off the exercise. I compared my new measurements to pattern sizing chart. –Last time I made the EAC camp shirt. I looked at the finished measurements charts. Wrong!  — I chose to trace a size medium.  I made my usual 1″ NSA and 1″ BWL. This time I also did what I’m calling a full tummy adjustment. I won’t share details this time, but the end result is adding both width and length across my tummy.

I realized after cutting out the back, I didn’t have enough fabric for the front. I’ve got a vest pattern that uses a scant 2/3 yard–more like 5/8. But the PAS requires a little more length.  I tried several fabric placements with the front before admitting that my initial estimates were wrong. At that point I hunted for scrapes from the pants. I found 1 just big enough to add the front yokes. It seemed rather blatant. So I tried tying the fabrics together with the diagonal grid in a rust embroidery thread. There simply wasn’t enough fabric for facings. But in my stash was a full package of bias tape which exactly matched the yellow of the pants. It was meant to be.  All the raw edges are finished in bias tape. Which in turn created another problem. I think the bias tape is causing the garment edges to cup.

The top almost fits. Look at the side view. I think I need a little bigger dart and for the first time in a long time, the front is too long. Usually the front hikes up like I’m 8 months PG. In a way, this is a good thing. It means that the 1″ width and length I struggled to add over my tummy was too much–maybe. In truth, next time I will make the dart deeper. The back has just a hint of a needed sway-back adjustment .  I’m still not sure of that. I’ve taken for-private-viewing-only photos and I still don’t see a sway-back when I’m in the raw.  Besides the back just looks a little small. Is that because the bias tape is causing the garment to cup?  But in the end, this fabric is wrong for this style. I think that odd since the RAL, and  YED are both extended sleeve shells and both look wonderful in the same type fabric. I think the difference maybe that even though this is an extended shoulder, the bust dart creates more shaping.

Fit is  not the worst part. I gasped at how ugly the pictures were. I thought they were just frightful.  I almost didn’t share but I wanted to document the changes made to PAS. Nah changed my mind. I’m not wearing these around the house. They go into the Goodwill box as soon as I post this.


2 thoughts on “Opps! A Wadder

  1. Oh Bev, how disappointed you must be… all that work to end up with a wadder… but I must say that I agree with you. I think that the biggest issue is the bias tape edging, for some reason it makes me think of the sort of uniforms worn by kitchen workers or veterinary technicians, and it is definitely pulling the lower edges inward… not at all like the pleasant sorts of clothing you usually make!


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