The Relax A Little pattern has been one of my favorites for a while. As drafted, the proportions aren’t correct for me and so the pattern languished after the first disaster. Then I started following TerriK’s example of “the pattern is only the starting point” and adapting it to me. Unfortunately, I cut the first pattern instead of tracing. So when my shape changed, I needed a new pattern. This is my first tracing of a size medium. I made my 1″ NSA and added 3″ in length. Since I normally subtract 1″ with a BWL, the garment is now 4″ longer than the designer drafted but…. it suits me:
I’m using a cotton/linen blend purchased from Hancocks Fabrics in the not too distant past. Originally I was thinking “vest” but this summery shirt won the day. I purchased lucite buttons from Etsy seller SunnyDayVintage. I’m not a a frequent Etsy buyer. In fact these were purchased in desperation. I have NO yellow buttons. None. Not one. (Still don’t since I used these immediately). I didn’t want to make a 6 hour trip looking for buttons and decided to buy off the net. Of course, I placed my purchase just before the US Memorial Holiday. The seller shipped promptly (I checked the post mark). The US Post Office took their sweet time delivering. However, I’m glad I waited. IRL, they are perfect. The lucite seems to harmonize with the other intense colors of the fabric.
I faced the hem, neckline and armscyes using bias tape. IMO using bias tape is much faster than cutting and finishing real facings. Plus I didn’t have enough fabric for real facings. By using bias, my cut was more than enough. I could have cut the yoke twice and used Louise’s sweet yoke finishing technique. Louise’s procedure completely encases the raw edges of the yoke producing a smooth professional interior. I decided this heavier cotton would be more comfortable if I cut the yoke as one layer and serged the front and back pieces to it. I added a little extra width so I could add the center back pleat.
That’s a super simple change. When cutting, I shifted the center back 1/2″ away from the fold. I also scooped the neck and discarded the collar. Summer has me doing crazy things.
Thinking of wearing it like this: