This is an old pattern, probably out of print. (I couldn’t find it on Loes site). Recently gifted to me, I think it’s a keeper! The pattern consists of two different front pieces, a back, a collar and a back peplum (?). I chose to use the back, the front shown on the right and the collar …
because of my fabric. My fabric is I think “griege goods”. That is, woven white on white in a Jacquard pattern (a scroll is used in my fabric) and then printed on one side. Unfortunately I had barely enough for the 3 pieces and could not add the back peplum. No fooling, I had strings left. Was unable to fussy cut my pattern and my collar sections were so unattractive a trim became necessary. I thought griege goods were made of cotton but this has an odd smell. Sort of like silk, but not exactly. I prewashed just because if a fabric can’t make it through my laundry methods I don’t want to make it into a garment. I don’t make art. I make garments that can be worn. Anyway, the fabric also has some odd yellow marks:
I’ve pointed some out with blue arrows. They are all over but random. They don’t repeat in any set pattern, length or width. Some look brushed. The only commonality is that they are all the same color. I have a feeling that these are stains which caused the piece to be rejected; eventually marked down and made its way to me. I think they are interesting and I like them. I don’t think they are really noticeable until you’re up close.
Ah the trim
purchased from Hobby Lobby, Sioux Falls not more than a year ago. I like it when things come into my stash and are used in a reasonable length of time (5 years or less). The trim was made by winding a variegated, loosely-woven ribbon from side to side and stitching down the middle to secure the loops. I hope you can see that in the pic because I’d sure like to try it on my cover stitch machine. Commitments and weather interfered with my sewing time and so it seems like I’ve been working on this vest for weeks. Despite the sheer number of days which elapsed, I’ve got no more than 6 actual sewing hours into the vest, 1 of which was spent choosing this trim. I purchased 1 precut length. When I selected this trim for use, I planned on 3 rows of trim along the collar to disguise its ugliness. I was only able to apply 2 rows. That’s all there was. It was a pain too. I didn’t have a foot that would guide this trim while it was stitched. My cording and ribbon feet all had openings that crushed and grabbed the trim instead of sliding it through and under the needle. I had to stitch by trying to guide the fabric edge evenly along a throat plate marking while keeping the trim free-flowing and straight. I used Sliver thread in the needle, again. It occurred to me that the Sliver I grabbed by mistake when practicing cording with the Juki Free Motion Foot would be perfect with this trim. Mostly invisible, it does had a slight glint. I used a long, straight stitch about 5mm. The trim is spongy. The collar interfaced. The griege goods medium-heavy weight. I didn’t want fight getting the trim under the foot and I was afraid I might need to rip it out. A long stitch would help both problems.
Because the trim would only make two rows, I trimmed its width in front. The collar has a seam in the center back. I think that gives it a little oomph so it can stand up. To me, it looks like a shawl collar but was much easier to apply. I matched center back and the two front notches; eased the pieces as I was stitching by placing the collar down facing the throat plate.
The vest does not have a front closure. These always bother me because they will look fine front and back but from the side:
it’s Judi Jetson all over again. I’m in the process of revising my personal croche. (Sorry spelling is wrong. Those miniaturized versions of yourself in your undies upon which you practice with clothing styles and combinations). Anyway, I can tell you why the front sticks out. I’ve reached the point where my tummy sticks out further than my boobs. I wish I could say there was hope for improvement but I’m pretty sure this is inherited from a long line of wonderful women. So I’m dealing with it. It’s an age issue as much as a weight and posture issue. I’m sure my time at the computer and at sewing doesn’t help. I prefer a front closure of some kind because it does control the frontal flare. I didn’t do one this time. I wasn’t sure exactly where the vest was going to meet in the center. This took me some 3 weeks and by the time I was able to try it on, I didn’t. I was bored and wanted to finish.
I won’t wear the vest with this particular top or pants. I tried the vest on with what I was wearing to check fit which for me, requires pictures. I like more of an analogous or monochromatic color scheme when dressing myself. I’ll be wearing blue.
I also fully lined my vest using the fabric left from this blouse. I’m happy to say all that fabric is now in use. I added my inside pockets. I’ve made a couple of vests without the interior pockets and found that I miss them. It’s much easier to carrier my cell in my vest than in/on pants.
Normally I don’t use the stitch and turn method of lining a vest. I like to press my seams into submission and find that process makes it difficult. I’m never satisfied with my pressing results using that lining method. I won’t use it on jackets. I did use it now because I couldn’t cut the back peplum piece that belong with this version of the Venetian Vest. Normal hemming would have made the back shorter than the front and too short for my taste. Using the stitch and pull through or whatever it’s called method, I was able to maximize the length of my vest.
Overall, I’m pleased. I thought not having the back peplum piece would be a disadvantage. Now I can see that it adds variety to the pattern and provides multiple versions using essentially the same fitting. I’m adding this pattern to my TNT’s and look forward to making it again.
Changes for next time:
- Permanently add 1/2″ ease below waist CB and CF
- Both back and front hems seem to be higher than side: add length to CB and CF
- Front swings forward in Judi Jetson configuration: add front closure or dart at front hem
- Vest seems to be drooping/draping under the arms. See if any of the above effect that. Increase underarm interfacing. This vest has 2″ under the arms, 3″ down center front and fully interfaced back and front bodice.
- Try the other versions.