BPD: Initial Fitting

I selected this busy print

with some reservations.  I wanted a busy print, a flattering color, a woven, non-stretch remnant. I especially wanted to use my remnants.  Summer time sewing usually decimates or at least brings that section of the stash back under control. Out of the 5 criteria this fabric met 3. It is a busy print. It is a woven. It is a remnant. Since my previous attempt with the BPD top was disastrous, I decided to give the remnant greater status and use it.  That way if I was not successful with this pattern, I also wouldn’t mind having wasted a fabric.

One of the things I can happily tell you is that the busy print successfully disguises the raglan line.

The line simply disappears into all the other busy lines.     That’s my back. No shoulder pads. No facings. No hems to the garment. If you look closely, the raglan line can be seen. However, it’s not the first thing that jumps out at you. Nor does it have the effect of making my shoulders look rounder than they are. (I am after all aging and do experience some rounding.)

But I’m having fitting issues, because of the fabric.  It wants to grow lengthwise.  I measured it against the tissue and it is already 1″ longer than when I cut.  At the first try-on the armscyes hung well below the arm p!ts and of course the fabric felt like it was pulling.  I started basting the shoulder and armscye seams deeper and deeper.  With each new basting line the garment felt more comfortable, as well as slowly raising the bottom of the armscye into place.  At the time of these pictures, the shoulder and armscye seams had been increased 1″.

Initially the shoulder seam wanted to slide forward of my shoulder. I could shift it into place. But the next try-on and the seam was back in front of my shoulder instead of on top of my shoulder. I wonder if I’m going to need shoulder pads and lingerie guards to keep the blouse hanging where it should be hanging.

Then a different issue starts happening:

I’ve drawn pink lines where folds are occurring around the armscye and upper bodice.  The bodice is at least 4″ too wide at the underarm and in the bust area, yet I have drag lines which might indicate a FBA is needed.

For some reason the back is unexpectedly but definitely longer than the front. Did I measure incorrectly when adding length? Or is this yet again a fabric issue? There are several things perplexing me.  Look at my bodice pic again, but this time I’ve added lines which follow the raglan and the neckline.

.

From the illustration, I thought this was a round neckline. On me it looks like it’s going to be a sweet heart neckline??  I did not get the impression that the raglan is convex curved, yet that’s what I’m seeing above.

I am going to chalk this up to  fabric issues.  I took the seams in far more than I expected and still have to fit under the arm.  I dare not remove more ease from the side seams because the mid-back is starting to accumulate wrinkles.

This would indicate a sway-back issue for others, but I know from long experience that I am short-waisted.  Anytime there is shaping of side seams or darts, I need to shorten the back-waist length.  I did. I shortened it 1″ but because the fabric wants to grow lengthwise, the waist shaping is dropping to  about the high hip.  I’m tempted to add an empire line.  An empire line would bring the shaping up where it needs to be and shorten this blouse which is now about 4″ too long.  Too bad the proportions actually look good:

.

OK hair needs to be fixed, garment needs to be finished and buttoned, but the first thing I think when seeing this pic is “What was I watching on Netflix” as opposed to “When did I get to be so short and dumpy?”   From that view-point my fabric and proportion choices are good.  I plan to finish, wear and share this blouse. But I won’t transfer any fitting changes back to the pattern.  This particular crinkle fabric is too unstable for me to arrive at any other conclusions.

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5 thoughts on “BPD: Initial Fitting

  1. As I remember the neckline is more of a sweetheart shape. The illustration does make it look round, but I think the line drawing on the back is more accurate. The cover makes it look more fitted too… again the line drawing shows it as boxy.
    Good luck.

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  2. Looks as if you’re coming along well with this garment. I may have misread, but I think you mentioned lowering the neckline a bit- I think that would be a good idea. I have this pattern and have some concerns about whether the raglan sleeve and neckline would accentuate my own “roundness.” I saw this pattern made up at a recent sewing expo where I took a class from Louise Cutting. Thanks for sharing your fitting journey!

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  3. I do agree that the proportion of how long you have made this top, coming almost down to fingertip length, is far a better look than the short top shown on the pattern envelope. (I should remember to try this length myself)

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  4. I’m also making a note on my pattern envelope to lengthen this top, as it looks so-ooo much better that way. I wish I’d known to lengthen the ABO tops I’ve made (yeah, measure, observe…) as they’re both too short to wear comfortably with anything remotely drop-waisted. Instead of TNT, they’re LNL (live ‘n learn)!

    Love your blog, Bev. It’s making up for SG being down for several days 😦

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