BPD: Proportions

I tackled the issue of proportion first. Mostly because the little RAL top was easily converted from frumpy to fantastic with the addition of 4″ of length (plus a 1.25″ hem). I remember shopping when I was close to 200 pounds.  I would choose clothing that was one color, loosely fitting and worn with close-to tunic-length tops.  It wasn’t so much that I was hiding the pounds as that it seemed to make me taller. Look, I quit fooling myself at 140 pounds.  I think you can make 5 pounds around the tummy or rear disappear with a little camo.  10 or 20 pounds can be made not so evident with some good underwear and careful selection of color and shapes worn.  But a 200 pound woman isn’t going to look anorexic. She’s not going to disappear. What you I hope for is the look of a happy, healthy, active person despite the too-many-pounds. Making your myself look 2-3 inches taller helps the projection of what I felt inside – healthy and happy. (I always felt I should be more active. I tend to be sedentary and enjoy sedentary activities.)  In addition to the height, I think the tunic length negated a square appearance i.e. that I didn’t look as wide as I was tall, simply by choosing garments that weren’t also as wide as they were tall.

I compared the length of the two tissues (the BPD and RAL top as altered).  I was preplexed.  I usually compare by matching shoulder points. But with the raglin sleeve, some of the shoulder height is included in the sleeve. I finally compared the back’s matching the neckline.  I added 6″ to the length.

I may still be off, but that’s a topic for tomorrow.

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7 thoughts on “BPD: Proportions

    1. Glad I’m not the only one who thinks the illustration is so alluring. I’ve just got to look like her even though I know my hair will never look like that and I’m never going weight the same as she does. LOL. Juliet, thanks for encouraging me.

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  1. I think lengthening the top is a great idea. Louise’s tops always seem to hit me right where I’m widest. Following your footsteps here.

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  2. Martha Myers posted a photo of this top on the Cutting Line Designs Flickr group showing the proportions and how it looks on a friend of hers.

    It’s not clear when you sewed the first BPD you discussed having issues with in your previous post. A search yielded no previous blog posts about it, nor did an advanced search on Stitcher’s Guild produce any posts with questions from you about fitting or constructing this top. You can always e-mail Louise Cutting with personal measurements/photos and questions instead of hoping she will have time to sift through all the chaff posted on a public board. Here are some I’ve gleaned from workshops, expos and advice on SG:

    You asked on SG if the shoulder seam of the raglan was forward. No, it rides down the center on the shoulder…But if your shoulder doesn’t run under the seam, the seam might need to be changed. It isn’t that the person’s body is wrong or the pattern is wrong, just that the pattern needs adjusting. Many women have to make forward shoulder adjustments. Search on “forward shoulder adjustment” to find several tutorials that provide step by step instructions for this.

    In the past, some have not liked the circumference of the sleeve hem so Louise told them to insert a little tab in the seam and a button about an 1″ or so on the back sleeve and button the hem smaller…works like a fold over wrist hem with a button.

    If this or other tops protrude or stick out at the hem in the front and back, add vertical darts front and back. Others have put a drawstring around the waist to give a bit of shape. Even with alterations, a top like this cannot be expected to camouflage “too many pound”.

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    1. Thanks Terri for the link. I think the bright color also could have helped diminish the impact of the raglan line. Wish the picture had included text about the changes she made or didn’t. My first blouse is water-under-the-bridge. I mentioned it only because, like the RAL, I’m attempting to turn failure into success. As for LC, I appreciate that she has a very busy life and doesn’t always have time to hold my hand. If she answers, great. If not, the other SG members usually step in. I was disappointed that the other SG members didn’t have any helpful information. I know that often I don’t respond because I don’t know the answer. I assume that’s what happened but I was surprised. Please, don’t worry about about that first aborted attempt. I’d much rather have your comments on this current project.

      Thanks for the information on the sleeve seam. I’m working on fitting the garment now. This fabric was a good choice and not a good choice. It wants to grow lengthwise. I’ve already taken the shoulder and armscye seams in an inch. When I try the blouse on, the shoulder seam wants to ride towards the front. I can adjust it towards the back but wonder if it will creep forward during wear. Knowing the pattern was drafted for the seam to sit on the shoulder is reassuring. Makes me think the garment will want to stay where I put it. I have noticed that I’m more round shouldered, I’m sure it’s an aging issue. In some blouses I need a center back seam so I can fit the neckline. This fabric and this garment aren’t gaping.

      Thanks for your hints and your comment. And you help.

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  3. Bev, the BPD top is a knock off of an Armani top. Louise gets her inspirations for patterns by looking at interesting designer and boutique garments. If you ask her via an e-mail (see her contact info on her web site) she will answer you.

    Re the solid blue top, I’m sure Martha Myers would be glad to tell you what alterations, if any, she made if you ask her on SG. Martha and the lady in the photo are a members of the City-Wide Couture of Atlanta Group http://citywidecouturegroupofatlanta.blogspot.com/ I believe Louise did a day-long workshop for them a couple years ago. The photo is from their July meeting. They have interesting programs and there are lots of photos on their blog at the link I posted.

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