I’m amazed! From a pattern previously discarded comes a flattering top. The addition of 5 inches, 1.25 of which was turned-up for a hem, made all the difference in the appearance of this blouse pattern.
I finished the neckline with bias tape but this time I bound the edge so that the bias tape with show. I also folded back the lapels and steamed them into place permanently, I hope.
With the armscyes, the bias was turned completely inside and became invisible. I top stitched the armscye using my cover stitch machine. It’s difficult to make crisp 90 degree turns on the cover stitch machine, so I finished the bottom edge with a single line of machine stitching.
The hem was turned up 1.25″ and also cover stitched. I’m putting the machine to use. I feel guilty, can’t help myself, for having purchased a machine which has so little versatility. So every time I think “Oh the cover stitch could do that”, it does.
I decided upon black buttons and button holes. I used the odd button at the top just because I wanted to. The other 4 buttons match the 2nd button. The top button is old. Not sure how old. I don’t remember this in my mother’s button box so I think it was in one of the many jars of buttons I purchased through the years at various garage sales.
I don’t think I have any serious fitting issues. The RAL looks great from the front. Its skims-everything fit is cooling. I paid dearly for the quilting fabric, but it is worth it. I can tell that this is premium cotton in the way it sews, handles and feels. The color is excellent for me. I have no make-up on. I’m completely au natural (although I did cleanse and moisturize as well as comb my hair.) Yet my skin glows and I have lips.
From the side it looks like I need an FBA. I’m a B cup. I never need an FBA. I would be honored to need an FBA. I’m inclined to think that this basic style is the real issue. There is little to no shaping. The shoulders do have a slope. The side seams are not exactly straight, more like slightly angled diagonal between armscye and hem. The front hem seems to be tilting upwards. It’s something that I’ve noticed on more and more of the tops that I sew. Again many would look at the diagonal pointing at the bust and insist that I need to add the FBA. I think the issue is on the back.
There are just a few wrinkles in the middle of the back. This could be velcro butt. You know, the hem sticks to the fabric higher upon the hip like velcro and won’t drop into place. When it does that, excess fabric gets shoved into the back and wrinkles. In my case though I think I may need just a little more ease across the hip. I did not do my normal back-waist length adjustment which would have brought the shaping up and perhaps put more ease across my hip. The sides were so straight, I thought the BWL unnecessary. I’m also finding that while I need a Small across the shoulders, I need a medium between the shoulder blades. In the last few patterns I’ve needed to add 1/4-1/2″ right at the armscye but only on the back. I think this may be part and parcel of the ageing process. As my shoulder rounds from age, the shoulder saddle becomes narrower but the distance between shoulder blades is lengthened. I’m beginning to find, for a nice fit on the back, I need a center back seam. What happens on the back does not happen in isolation. Since there is not enough room on the back, it tries to borrow it from the front. Hence we think we see a need for an FBA. We think there isn’t enough room for the bust. In truth the back is taking the ease it needs by squishing the soft frontal tissues. When I look back at the side view, I think that the back looks smaller than the front. That’s also an indicator that more fabric is needed for the back.
This is a nice blouse. The problems are minor. None of my friends will even notice. But I will adapt the pattern slightly for future versions.