I will never tire of this pattern, Cutting Line Designs My Hearts A Flutter #59269. Never. I have considered converting some of my other patterns to use the armscye dart. That dart placement solves multiple problems for me. With the completion of Haf #2, another thought about this pattern occurred to me. My thought was in combination with recent fitting problems and the reason I fell in love with Ottobre Design patterns. I love Otto for 2 reasons
1) Otto publishes patterns for garments I actually wear. My Otto garments are my go-to clothing. These are the garments barely out of the laundry before being yet again upon my frame. My Otto garments are the garments I wear out.
2) Ottobre Design patterns are the easiest patterns I’ve ever fit. OK it helped that I already knew I have a narrow shoulder and am short-waisted. But I also recall carefully reading Otto’s sizing instructions the first time. To me, the instructions said trace the pattern size which corresponds to measurements of the body part. So I traced a 38 shoulder, 40 bust, 42 waist and 44 hip. I made a 1″ back-waist length adjustment and the pattern fit. I wondered if I could do something similar with other patterns. I wondered what difference in fit I would see, if instead of tracing the Med+ (and making NSA and BWL alterations), I would trace a small shoulder, Medium bust/waist and large hip?
I started by adding fusible non-woven interfacing to the pattern. I’ve never cut the original tissue. I’ve always traced. I’ve referred back to the original several times as my size changed or I wanted to create different styling details. The original tissue has become soft; fragile. I could buy another. Instead, I took 10 minutes and fused it with non-woven interfacing. In addition to preserving the original tissue, interfacing adds weight and cuts down on some of the shifting/blowing around which occurs with tissue alone. After fusing the original tissue, I traced the sizes mentioned above. As you can imagine, there were lines which didn’t merge nicely. I used my french curve to join those lines. This slightly changes the pattern draft. Where LC designed a straight side-seam, mine curves.
I don’t think this change will be noticeable to the casual viewer. For me personally , there is now needed hip ease without creating a Judi-Jetson flare.
But this is still a test. I’m not really, absolutely, 100% positive the altered pattern will result in a garment I love or even will adequately fit. So I hunted though the remnant part of my stash for a length of fabric suitable for testing. Guess what? I have used the remnant from Otto’s Vintage Blouse. I decided with this version, to coordinate the finish of neckline, armscyes and hem. I trimmed each of these edges to the stitching line and then wrapped with purchased, white bias-tape. My sewing order was shoulder seams, finish all edges and then baste side seams. The result IMHO is beautiful:
The shoulder line is wider. I mean in all the other versions I’ve made of the HAF, the outside edge of the armscye has fallen about an inch from the shoulder point as a result of my 1″ narrow shoulder adjustment. IMO, the front is near-perfect. The side view might indicate that a little more room for my bust would be helpful. I’m more concerned about the slight, hardly noticeable rising of the front hemline. Note sure if I want to attempt an FBA (with my B cup that’s usually not needed) or if I want to add 1/4″ in length along the center front fold. I also see the folds mid-back. Thing is, once I start moving about there will be drag lines someplace. I have other photos of the back in which those folds are barely noticeable. I did not create the side vents. I’m really wanting to use this as a sloper for comparison with other sleeveless patterns. Not really sure what I’ll do, but I’m leaning towards adding another 1/8″ to the side seam between hip and hem. A second choice…. a really good second choice is creating a center back seam and adding the 1/8″ ease along the CB seam. I love how much faster it is to sew tops when the front and back pattern pieces are placed on a fold. But, as I age, I really appreciate the how much better fit I can achieve when the center back is a seam. I can really see myself creating that center back seam for woven, non-stretch fabrics; AND fitting a second version of the HAF with stretch fabrics which would not require the CB seam.
There is some wrinkling of the bias tape around the neckline and armscyes. I’m not sure if this is my fault for not applying the tape correctly or if this is a result of too much ease across the upper chest created from this different method of tracing the pattern and applying corrections for my individual body. There’s also something to be said and considered about the high neckline. It does have an effect. Fact is, the wrinkling is not so bad that I’m going to do anything about it right now. I will make note and watch for this issue in future versions.
My final thought is SUCCESS! The premises was: Could tracing various sizes based on body dimensions be as effective a fitting aide with other patterns as it is with Ottobre Design patterns? The answer for CLD is a resounding YES. In fact, I think this version fit better the first time and with less effort as compared to the tracing same pattern in a single larger size and applying various alterations to size it down. This is definitely a technique I want to use or at least experiment with on other patterns.