I had a second fabric an ITY, purchased from Fabricmart, which I could not return to my stash without considerable effort. As with the previous post, I wanted a quick and easy project, but, ya’ know, I just didn’t want another plain Tshirt or exact duplicate of anything in my closet; and I really didn’t want to take the time to fit a pattern.
…BUT (you knew that was coming) I wanted to make a top now. I didn’t want to order a pattern from an international company, pay the humongous shipping fees, and wait for 2 weeks. I wanted to get this done. The easiest thing to do was a Frankenpattern. I chose Loes Hines Bianca Sweater 5208 and chalked a new hemline right on the fabric.
Then I realized, I could mix it up a bit more by changing the sleeve. I used the sleeve from Loes Hines 5202.
Well I cut the sleeve from 5202 and crossed my fingers. I wasn’t sure how this much larger sleeve was going to work. To make it work, I had 2 factors on my side. (1) ITY is a knit and stretches pretty good. (2) The differential feed on my serger. Yep I set the differential to 1.5; matched center sleeve to shoulder; placed the sleeve on the feed-dogs and I held on tight to the matched side seams. PIECE OF CAKE. I’m tellin’ you, you wouldn’t know this sleeve was not drafted for this top.
|Frankenpattern-ed from LH5208 and 5202|
I have this pattern, 5208, adjusted for a 1-1/4″ hem. I was really concerned about whether I would like the asymmetrical hem. I’m often drawn to such details, but then fuss constantly when wearing the garment. When I added the angled hem, I planed for a twice-turned, 1/4″ hem and the possibility of whacking the thing off. So when worn, the top is a little too long.
Yes I’ve already worn it. I had planned to take pictures so that I could show the proportions on me. It just wasn’t one of my good days and that didn’t happen. I don’t really care for tunic length garments, anymore. 40 pounds ago I used to wear them constantly. A slim pant combined with a tunic length top is very slimming. I wore the look so often, I just don’t want to wear it now. I was surprised, and a bit pleased, as I’d catch a glimpse of myself in the mirror and say, “I really don’t look bad at all.” So although I can’t show you how it looked, I can tell you that it was good. I can also say, I really wasn’t bothered by this hem detail. The placement and length is not only good on me, but the asymmetrical quality didn’t worry me.
The first time I used this pattern, I was working with a Bamboo Knit. I find that Bamboo has some of the qualities of Slinky Knits. Bamboo tends to be heavy and stretches both length- and width-wise. Initially, I made a 1″ back-waist length adjustment and a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment. On the envelope, I’ve noted that that for Bamboo and Slinky fabrics I need to make the pattern at least 1/2″ narrower and shorter with plans to shorten even more after wearing. I bring this up, because ITY doesn’t have the same effect. I was expecting more of a sweater-knit type fit. Sweater knits always seem to have a little too much ease, but are fine lengthwise. The ITY does appear to be fine lengthwise. I mean it is the length I expected with the addition of the asymmetrical hem. But width-wise, it was a surprise. The shoulder is too wide and I could stand another 1/2″ ease from the waist down. I have marked my pattern accordingly. I can’t let the sides seams out –they are already sewn with 1/4″ seams. The only place which is bad, is in the front at the belt buckle. I need my belts. They are my way of adjusting the waist of my pants on an as needed basis.
And I write all that fabric info because of recent comments on SG. It’s true, ejvc, there is no such thing as a cut-N-sew pattern. You always have to take into account the characteristics of fabric.