LH 5208 FrankenPattern

I had a second  fabric an  ITY, purchased from Fabricmart, which I could not return to my stash without considerable effort. As with the previous post, I wanted  a quick and easy project, but, ya’ know, I just didn’t want another plain Tshirt or exact duplicate of anything in my closet; and I really didn’t want to take the time to fit a pattern.


I’ve been perusing Style Arc, an Australian pattern company with more than a little interest. I was inspired by both the posts at SG and the pics at Style arc of  The Adele Top

…BUT (you knew that was coming)  I wanted to make a top now.  I didn’t want to order a pattern from an international company, pay the humongous shipping fees, and wait for 2 weeks.  I wanted to get this done.  The easiest thing to do was  a Frankenpattern.  I chose Loes Hines Bianca Sweater 5208  and chalked a new hemline right on the fabric.


Then I realized, I could mix it up a bit more by changing the sleeve.  I used the sleeve from Loes Hines 5202.



Well I cut the sleeve from 5202 and crossed my fingers.  I wasn’t sure how this much larger sleeve was going to work. To make it work, I had 2 factors on my side.  (1) ITY is a knit and stretches pretty good. (2) The differential feed on my serger. Yep I set the differential to 1.5; matched center sleeve to shoulder; placed the sleeve on the feed-dogs  and  I held on tight to the matched side seams.  PIECE OF CAKE. I’m tellin’  you, you wouldn’t know this sleeve was not drafted for this top.



Frankenpattern-ed from LH5208 and 5202


I have this pattern, 5208, adjusted for a 1-1/4″ hem.  I was really concerned about whether I would like the asymmetrical hem.  I’m often drawn to such details, but then fuss constantly when wearing the garment.  When I added the angled hem, I planed for a twice-turned, 1/4″ hem and the possibility of whacking the thing off. So when worn, the top is a little too long.


Yes I’ve already worn it.  I had planned to take pictures so that I could show the proportions on me.  It just wasn’t one of my good days and that didn’t happen.  I don’t really care for tunic length garments, anymore.  40 pounds ago I used to wear them constantly.  A slim pant combined with a tunic length top is very slimming. I wore the look so often, I just don’t want to wear it now. I was surprised, and a bit pleased, as I’d catch a glimpse of myself in the mirror and say, “I really don’t look bad at all.”   So although I can’t show you how it looked, I can tell you that it was good.  I can also say, I really wasn’t bothered by this hem detail. The placement and length is not only good on me, but the asymmetrical quality didn’t worry me.


Back View


The first time I used this pattern, I was working with a Bamboo Knit.  I find that Bamboo has some of the qualities of Slinky Knits.  Bamboo tends to be heavy and stretches both length- and width-wise.  Initially, I made a 1″ back-waist length adjustment and a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment.  On the envelope, I’ve noted that that for Bamboo and Slinky fabrics I need to make the pattern at least 1/2″ narrower and shorter with plans to shorten even more after wearing.  I bring this up, because ITY doesn’t have the same effect. I was expecting more of a sweater-knit type fit. Sweater knits always seem to have a little too much ease, but are fine lengthwise. The ITY does appear to be fine lengthwise. I mean it is the length I expected with the addition of the asymmetrical hem.  But width-wise, it was a surprise.  The shoulder is too wide and I could stand another 1/2″ ease from the waist down.  I have marked my pattern accordingly. I can’t let the sides seams out –they are already sewn with 1/4″ seams.  The only place which is bad, is in the front at the belt buckle.  I need my belts.  They are my way of adjusting the waist of my pants on an as needed basis.


And I write all that fabric info because of recent comments on SG.  It’s true, ejvc, there is no such thing as a cut-N-sew pattern.  You always have to take into account the characteristics of fabric.



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