Last week I thought to compare the patterns I use as my slopers to each other. In woven fabrics Louise Cuttings “My Heart’s A Flutter”
seemingly simple sleeveless top is my perfect summer top. I’ve been using it as a basis for developing other sleeveless, woven tops (and unique details), when it occurred to me to wonder why this was so absolutely perfect in woven fabrics and my “sloper” for knit sleeveless tops, KS3497 View C,
was merely OK. Seriously, I never thought of KS3497 as the perfect knit sleeveless top. I never went so far as to trace and sew alternate views, because View C, fit OK, not perfect. I simply was not confident that the surplice versions would be satisfactory because after 6 versions (and multiple more alterations) KS3497 View C was just, OK. Yet I was using KS3497 with it’s acceptable fit as my sloper with other sleeveless knit top patterns.
I wondered why? I mean knit fabrics have so much forgiveness built in due to their basic construction, it would logically seem that a pattern for knit fabrics would be easy to perfect while a pattern for woven fabrics would have more difficulties. It seemed to me that the HAF should fit OK and the KS3497 should have the perfect fit. On a whim, I decided to compare the HAF to KS 3497. My my my and Oh my some more. The HAF has a much, much higher armscye at least 2″ higher than KS 3497”. The HAF had the much desired horizontal bust dart (admittedly due to my rotating it from the armscye after getting Louise’s advice). and was surprisingly about 3/8″ narrower. That’s 3/8″ narrower on the front half, which would be 3/4″ for the full front plus the same for the back and a total of 1.5″ LESS ease in the woven pattern than the knit pattern. OH My what a shocker!! Really, I had assumed that I would find the knit pattern to have the higher armscye and less ease than the woven pattern. I was wrong.
I further compared the HAF pattern to Pamela’s Patterns Perfect T (PP104) another very loved pattern for it’s wonderful fit. In fact I would say it is my perfect knit T shirt pattern. Last fall and winter when I was making long sleeve knit tops, I would compare the new pattern with PP104. If they were close, by gollies the final fit would be good. Wherever they differed, I’d hate the new pattern. Now I compared the HAF tissue to the PP104 tissue. SHOCK ensued! The HAF has the a higher armscye (it is sleeveless) and the bust dart, but all other check points agree. That shouldn’t happen. NO NO a pattern designed for a woven should have more ease and several other changes to be as comfortable as a pattern designed for knits. I was stunned. Just stunned. So much so that I decided upon an anathema. I’m making a knit top from a woven pattern. Yep you read correctly. As much as I have preached against it, riled against it, condemned others for it, I’m using a pattern designed for wovens to make my next knit top. All I can say is…… well, we will see …..